Each season I like to present the designers whose collections I most admired (or desired). This fall was more difficult than any previous season. A collection is comprised of 30-50 pieces and my criteria is that I must LOVE at least 6 pieces to showcase the designer. Last year was a cinch, as I must have been on ecstacy because I loved everything. Carolina Herrara and MaxMara, Michael Kors and Donnna Karan, Ralph Rucci and Elie Saab, and YSL and Givenchy: go look. These are clothes you ache for—even if you have nowhere to wear them. Just looking made me giddy. This year…not so much.
There was a stand-out, a designer who seemed to recognize that opulence and design still need to equate to wearability. His name is Haider Ackermann and he has long been known for his very severe, architectural looks and androgyny—not concepts I’m drawn to. This fall he held to his aesthetic but warmed and softened it and amid the explosion and confusion of other designers, this felt like a slice of luxurious reality. A woman could wear these clothes and be flattered by them. See for yourself.
Subdued neutrals with a trace of color at the neck. Long lean skirts are my favorite kind especially when combined with a soft draped top. The eggplant leather coat is fabulous.
More eggplant, in an origami wrapped leather jacket and full trousers- another plus, as I have no interest in the whole cropped pant look. On the right, it’s another slim skirt beautifully paired with a blush shantung jacket. Stunning.
And just when your eye is lulled—explosive fall color. This is astonishing and only a taste of what he showed. There was pumpkin, paprika, mustard, red…all beautifully combine in a way that did not overwhelm or clash but grabbed and held your attention. The drapey silk blouse with its intricate folds, on the left, sets off the slim pants. On the right, the blouse is like a piece of art and yet seductively soft.